Article #30840

Thought to have been introduced by Anglo-Indian officers in the Royal Navy in the 1800s, the dish has since spiralled into a national obsession

The sailors aboard the navy vessel Hashidate know what’s for lunch long before the telltale aromas escape from the galley.

Yosuke Oyama, the ship’s chef, has been up since dawn, softening onions and occasionally stirring a pot of chicken stock that has been simmering for several hours.